Laminate laying is carried out on any even surface. It can be a cement screed, and linoleum, a wooden floor, and an old parquet (only you need to understand that the laminate will not relieve the creak of old parquet).
If you are going to repair the floor and lay the laminate on a wooden floor, you should finish off the hats of old nails. Large differences between the boards can be removed by a universal grinding machine that can be bought in a store, but it is more advisable to rent from a specialized brigade.
The cement floor is first covered with a moisture -resistant film (it is not required for wooden bases). Then the sound -absorbing substrate is laid.
Different substrates are sold in stores and in the construction markets:
1. Foamed polyethylene. Suitable for any dry, hard and flat surface. Does not rot and can be used along with a moisture -resistant film.
2. The combined substrate is thicker, has more sound insulation and can be used without a moisture -proof film.
3. Croofing substrate – has increased heat and sound insulation, is made from the crushed oak bark and requires the use of moisture insulation.
The laminate is divided into class, from 21 (home premises) to 33 (commercial premises with increased cross -country ability). Also, laminate is divided into adhesive and bastle (castle). The laminate is laid perpendicular to the window, so that the light falls parallel to the seams of the laminate. So the joints of the laminate will be less noticeable. Before laying, sealed laminate packages must be acclimatized within 48 hours in the middle of the room.
Laminate laying is carried out as follows:
The first panel is laid in the left corner with a tongue (spike) to the wall. It must be remembered that the laminate should defend 10 millimeters from the walls, this gap will not allow it to rise upon expansion. Therefore, wedges are inserted between the wall and the laminate, which are necessarily removed after completion of work. The next panel is laid at the end of the first, having a spike in the first panel at an angle, sharply press on the second panel and snap the lock. So continue until the end of the row. The last panel, most likely, will have to be cut off, and the next row can be started already with this pruning if its length is within 30-90 centimeters.
The next row is laid in a checkerboard pattern. The second row can be put in two ways. You can separately collect the entire series, and then (here, most likely, you need the help of a partner), carefully raise the entire row (just do not break it) and insert his spike into the first row’s groove at an angle, then sharply snap the lock. Most likely, all the locks will not snap at once, so trim the entire second row with a hammer through a wad of a laminate, so as not to hush the edges. Or rummage it with a palm in the direction of the first row.
You can collect the second row in another way, inserting one panel into the first row, and then the panels of one row are assembled with a hammer, but necessarily through the wedges, so as not to spoil the edges.